In August 2017 my best friend and I took a trip together to Barcelona, Spain and did a 4-day stop-over in Lisbon, Portugal. Best.decision.ever. Lisbon is a beautiful city - and one of the oldest in the world - with gorgeous architecture and historic cobblestone streets, delicious fresh seafood (due to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean), and incredibly hospitable and friendly residents.
Lisbon is comprised of several neighborhoods, “Bairros de Lisboa”, and we stayed in Graca which is in the north-eastern part, but an easy 25-minute walk to the city center and Commerce Square. Navigating the city by map is very doable and there is a tram that runs for most of the day for a reasonable fare, but we did most of our exploring by foot! However, Uber is available throughout the city and we did use it to get to our Fado experience, a little further away, and to and from the airport.
I probably could have stayed in Lisbon forever, but one week is the perfect length to explore all of the neighborhoods and feel like you have a good sense of the city before heading home. If you have the chance, here are some of the things we did in each bairro that I would recommend and I’ve tried to go in chronological order of my photo journal so you can follow along!
BAIXA
Make sure to try pasteis de nata - Portuguese custard tarts - at a local coffee or pastry shop. We had them every day because they are so good!
Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square)
Castelo de S. Jorge - This is a ticketed activity (8.5 EUR for outdoor only) and a lovely (long) walk to the top, but so worth it when you get there! We arrived around sunset and it was so beautiful to see the city made golden by the sun.
ALFAMA
You can get lost winding through this hilly bairro finding hidden corridors, small glimpses of the sea, and beautiful churches, but there are many little cafes and bars to keep you sustained as you walk! If you go in the evening, you must see a Fado performance. We went to Casa de Linhares - set in the ruins of an old palace - for dinner and a performance and it was so incredibly moving and beautiful.
CHIADO
This is a more touristy part of town, but there are lots of shops (both high-end and not) and restaurants to pop into! You should also take a little time to visit Livraria Bertrand - the oldest operating bookstore in the world - and explore the Carmo Convent ruins and museum.
GRACA
Stay with Airbnb - I don’t think our particular place is listed anymore, but I’d recommend finding a spot with a balcony so you can view the whole city! It’s much cheaper and a calmer feel than staying in the city center.
Visit A Penalva Da Graca restaurant for amazing fresh fish! It’s a little hole in the wall and many there don’t speak English, but if you love seafood you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu (especially Portugal’s specialty - salted cod)!
Do the Portugese Bread Cooking Class with Sandra through Airbnb experiences. Sandra is incredibly nice and knowledgeable and although you don’t get to eat your bread, she makes breakfast for you and you can take away a loaf from a previous class or one she baked!
PRINCIPE REAL
If we had one more day in Lisbon I would spend more time in Principe Real. It's more green and lush than other parts of the city with a botanic garden (closed for renovations when we were there unfortunately) and a large outdoor park. We did, however, get to have lunch at one of the more well-known restaurants in the area - A Cevicheria - which was an experience in itself!
